German born Eva Leube’s quest to be a watchmaker dates back to 1995 when she obtained her Masters Diploma. Subsequently she has worked for numerous prestigious companies including Ulysse Nardin and Thomas Prescher. It was here she mastered the art of constructing highly complex movements like retrograde time indications and multiple-axis flying tourbillons. This experience proved to be invaluable in the establishment of her own workshop in 2007. Four years later she unveiled the magnificent Ari at Baselworld.
Presently Eva resides in Sydney, Australia and named her first creation after her son. The Ari is a highly original timepiece that is both elegant and distinctive. With dimensions of 52.44mm x 21.6mm x 8.45mm the piece is clearly aimed at the unisex market. I would also imagine the watch would be comfortable to wear due the use of materials and intuitive design. Realistically a timepiece of this nature would be worn for special occasions rather than for every day use.
Despite the fact this watch was initially produced in 2011 it is still a current model and therefore definitely worthy of an editorial feature. Aesthetically the Ari is absolutely beautiful and completely unique. The highly original curved slender case is a revelation and is the epitome of finesse. I love the skeletonised façade consisting of two sub dials. The attention to detail on this piece is superlative and that is testament to the vision of the atelier. Eva’s core objective was to devise a simple cohesive design with clean strong lines. Personally I feel she has gone well beyond this and created a work of art. The coolest feature of this watch is the incorporation of three sapphire crystal windows creating the illusion of weightlessness.
Beneath the watch’s refined silhouette lays a highly accomplished mechanism. This 18-jewel manual wound movement comprises 209 components and oscillates at a frequency of 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz). It is important to stress every element of this exquisite timepiece has been hand decorated and finished. Normally the crown wheel, ratchet wheel, click with click spring, escapement and balance all face down towards the back of the watch. Eva has ingeniously reversed this to add to the visual appeal of the Ari. Apparently an enormous amount of skill was required to achieve this feat of engineering.
In recent conversations with Eva she explained how each watch is a bespoke item and takes a year to make. On that basis she will customise the choice of materials and engravings to suit the clients requirements at an additional cost. Presently the case is available in rose, yellow, white gold and platinum. Currently prices range from €76,000 -€93,000.
