Luxury Swiss watchmaker Chopard was established in 1860 by the youthful 24 year old Louis-Ulysse Chopard. Originally the business was located in Sonvilier, Switzerland and produced specialist precision pocket watches. By 1937 the company relocated to Geneva and employed 150 workers. In 1963 the owner Paul-André Chopard (the founder’s grandson) sold Chopard to a talented watchmaker and goldsmith called Karl Scheufele II. At this stage the brand went in a completely new direction and began manufacturing diamond timepieces for ladies.
I have been a huge admirer of Chopard for a long time and am glad they have kept their independent status. Presently Karl-Friedrich II’s children Karl-Friedrich and Caroline Scheufele are co-presidents of the company. Caroline predominantly oversees the ladies collections whilst Karl-Friedrich has been responsible for the highly successful Mille Miglia series of watches. The partnership with the legendary Italian classic car rally began 26 years ago in 1988. Since then Chopard have released a special limited edition Mille Miglia timepiece on an annual basis. As well as turning a healthy profit the company is involved in many philanthropic causes including a conservation project called the WWF’s Tiger Initiative.
Recently Chopard unveiled a new timepiece at Baselworld 2014 called the L.U.C Tourbillon Tech Steel Wings. The watch combines contemporary elegance with traditional watchmaking techniques. Dimensionally the watch is pretty small by modern standards measuring only 40.50mm x 10.93mm. Even though this timepiece is marketed at the masculine buyers I can definitely imagine it will appeal to a lot of female collectors as well. Although I haven’t personally worn this watch it is a similar size and shape to the Breguet tradition I reviewed last year. For that reason I feel this watch would feel lightweight and comfortable on the wrist. Primarily this is down to the elegant case design and choice of luxurious 18-karat rose gold in production. Due to the exclusive nature of this timepiece I feel it would only be reserved for extra special formal occasions.
Visually the L.U.C Tourbillon Tech Steel Wings has an exceptionally high quality and distinctive appearance. What makes this timepiece so alluring is the sublime multi layered façade. I love the hand crafted open worked dial, which showcases elements of the complicated mechanical movements. Details like the gold chapter ring with die cut Roman numerals perfectly interact with the delicate blue hour minute hands. However, for me the star of the show is the large aperture (located at 6 o’clock) displaying the majestic rotating tourbillon carriage. Overall the composition is sensational and the finishing is absolutely first class.
At the heart of the watch is a highly accomplished four-barrel manual winding movement. The Calibre L.U.C 4TT comprises 33 jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. Each of the components have been meticulously assembled, engraved and decorated with “Côtes de Genève” pattern. This sophisticated mechanism is visible through the sapphire crystal exhibition case back. Functionally the L.U.C Tourbillon Tech Steel Wings features hours, minutes and small-seconds displayed on the tourbillon carriage. The watch also has an impressive 9-day power reserve and is water resistant to a depth of 30 metres.
The L.U.C Tourbillon Tech Steel Wings is limited to 100 pieces (25 pieces for the baguette diamond model) and has a hand sewn black crocodile strap with matching rose gold folding clasp. Price: $137,280.00