The fascinating thing about Baselworld is that you are never in a quandary with what to do with your spare time. For example if a meeting concluded quicker than expected there is an enormous amount of watches to view. For a watch enthusiast this is a wonderful predicament to find oneself in. Whilst I was visiting another brand, I had the great fortune to meet up with my good friend Nicholas Hooper (MAD & Associates). He currently represents brands like Arnold & Son, Bremont and SevenFriday in Australia. It was on his recommendation that I went to check out a really beautiful watch by Swiss brand Angelus.
Angelus’s story dates back to 1891, when dynamic brothers Albert and Gustav Stolz founded the brand. The company became renowned for the production of a range of products including chronographs, travel clocks and exceptionally complicated wristwatches. With the advent of quartz watches in the 1970’s the business fell into decline. However in 2011 mechanical movement specialist Manufacture La Joux-Perret SA revived Angelus. Under the guidance of CEO Frédéric Wenger and head of innovation Dr Sébastien Chaulmontet they have just unveiled an exquisite new timepiece called the U10 Tourbillon Lumière.
When I first set eyes on the U10 Tourbillon Lumière I was pretty astonished at how striking it actually was. Dimensionally it also packs a pretty impressive punch and measures in at 62.75 mm x 38 mm x 15 mm. Clearly these proportions won’t appeal to everyone and especially not traditionalists. However I do love oversized watches and feel the design warranted something special of this scale. Generally the timepiece felt surprisingly comfortable on the wrist. It also felt pretty lightweight considering it is constructed from steel rather than titanium. Realistically the watch would be reserved for very special occasions although it could be worn for everyday use.
If I had to say there was a trend occurring at Baselworld (in the case of high end timepieces) I would say more brands are incorporating sapphire crystal into their designs. For example Cabestan, HYT and Oliver Saveo all produced exquisite cases with tubed sapphire crystal. Angelus have approached this slightly differently and created a separate window displaying a seemingly floating tourbillon. The result is astounding and certainly gives the U10 Tourbillon Lumière an unforgettable appearance. I also love the more conventional dial with small exposed areas showcasing the mechanical movement. Overall the three dimensional retro composition is absolutely sensational and the level of finishing first rate.
Beneath the magnificent exterior lies a highly accomplished twin barrel manual winding movement developed entirely in house by Manufacture La Joux-Perret SA. The Calibre A100 comprises 38-jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5Hz). Each of the mechanisms components have been polished chamfered and laser engraved to the highest possible standards. All of this exquisite craftsmanship is visibly showcased through the sapphire crystal exhibition case back. Functionally the U10 Tourbillon Lumière features hours, minutes and seconds. The timepiece also has a power reserve of 90-hours and is water resistant to a depth of 30 metres.
The U10 Tourbillon Lumière has a hand-stitched black alligator strap and is limited to 25 pieces worldwide. Priced for the discerning at: 99,500 CHF (approximately $102,773).
For more information about Angelus visit the company’s website: http://www.angelus-watches.com
