It always amazes me how much some watch companies actually spend on marketing. Some of their budgets are astronomical and targeted specifically at the professional market. Not surprisingly Rolex, Swatch, Richemont and LVMH are the biggest spenders. Nowadays sponsorship deals and brand ambassadors are the norm. Literally everyday I receive a press release announcing a new celebrity partnership. Essentially I haven’t got a problem with this at all because they produce superb timepieces and it makes really good business sense. However it does make it a lot harder for small independent watchmakers to get the exposure they need to survive. Fortunately blogs like mine offer these ateliers the chance to gain the recognition they deserve.
Approximately eighteen months ago I featured a very talented watchmaker called Kees Englebarts. Like most craftsmen of his calibre he has worked previously for impressive companies like Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Van Cleef & Arpels and Philippe Dufour. This experience ultimately gave him the confidence to establish his own label. Personally I applaud his courage and definitely feel he made the right decision. I also feel his decision to only make custom made watches for discerning customer’s shows a lot of integrity.
His latest creation called the Red Gold Tourbillon isn’t really a new watch but a new version of the Organic Tourbillon. It is also pertinent to mention that he has also produced a fantastic Bronze model as well. As Kees doesn’t have the resources to attend the big shows like Baselworld it is very hard to actually get access to any of his timepieces. However I imagine the watch would be comfortable to wear (due to modestly proportioned 43mm 18-karat red gold case). Realistically I feel a watch of this caliber would be reserved for extra special formal occasions.
Visually I feel the Red Gold Tourbillon has a warmer appearance than the Organic Tourbillon. Although I must say I do absolutely love the overall aesthetic of 950 Platinum. Certainly the luxurious18-karat gold case gives this watch a whole new dynamic. However apart from that addition the timepiece is effectively the same as its predecessor. I suppose what you are really buying into is Kees’ expertise when you purchase one of his hand crafted watches. The skeletonized dial is exquisite as are the sublime twisted etched Mokume-Gane etched gold hour/minute hands.
At the heart of the watch is a highly sophisticated twin barrel manual-winding movement sourced from Technotime. The Caliber TT 791comprises 27-Jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. This entire splendor is also visible through the sapphire crystal case back. Functionally the Red Gold Tourbillon features hours, minutes, tourbillon and a staggering power reserve of 120 hours.
The Red Gold Tourbillon has a black hand-sewn crocodile leather strap with matching 18-karat red gold folding buckle. Priced for the connoisseur at: CHF 180,000 (approximately $190,692).
Photographs courtesy of Guy Lucas De Peslouan
