During my week at Baselworld (in March) I met a lot of very interesting people. I also managed to get a broad range of views regarding the state of the watch industry. As you would expect opinions were completely divided. Some brands adopted an optimistic front whereas others were a bit more reserved. Ultimately a large event like Baselworld can be a make or break situation for companies. For example one of the watchmakers I met at the event recently informed me he is now in the process of liquidating their stock. This is why Prokop & Brož didn’t attend the event because they want to grow organically and not incur additional financial burdens.
The last time I featured Prokop & Brož on Total Watch Reviews was back in November 2013. At that time they had just released a sensational limited edition timepiece called the Frantisek Kupka Salon d’Automne-Paris 1912. From recent conversations with Jan Prokop (co owner) he explained that they are in the process of developing several new models. He also mentioned that the company were concentrating on the domestic market (Czech Republic) rather than expanding globally at the moment.
Recently Jan Prokop sent me many images, which illustrate all their new watches. Although all of the timepieces look fantastic it was the Spirála 85 l.e. that really caught my attention. Dimensionally the watch is a similar size to the Frantisek Kupka Salon d’Automne-Paris 1912 and has a diameter of 44mm. These proportions should appeal to a broad range of consumers including the lucrative unisex market. It also should feel fairly comfortable and lightweight on the wrist. Primarily this is down to the stylish case design and choice of 316L stainless steel in production. Normally I would prefer the use of more expensive materials like carbon, titanium or ceramic. However in this instance steel seems to suit the style of the watch.
Visually the Spirála 85 l.e. has a really cool and high quality futuristic appearance. Renowned architect Vaclav Cigler conceived the original design. The central idea is based on the fact that the Universe is still expanding. Unlike many conventional mechanical pieces this watch is devoid of hands. Time is displayed on a unique glass dial in a 24-hour spiral format. This characteristic was very complicated to manufacture and is composed of twenty individual glass components. In my opinion the end result is astonishing and definitely worthy of the effort.
At the heart of the watch is a sophisticated 17-jewel manual winding skeletonized movement. The Calibre PB11 HS (ETA 6497-1 base) has been modified in house to operate a 24-hour cycle. Each individual component has been meticulously engraved, finished, polished, decorated and assembled by hand. This amazing mechanism is visibly showcased via the exhibition sapphire crystal case back. Functionally the Spirála 85 l.e. features a 24-hour indication and minutes.
The Spirála 85 l.e. is limited to only 85 pieces and has a hand stitched black alligator strap. Priced at: $17,000.
