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Konstantin Chaykin ‘ThinKing’

Within the world, horology watchmakers are striving to develop new concepts to entice customers away from their competitors. One of the main areas is using new materials like carbon composites and lightweight alloys. Brands are even going as far as trademarking names to make the timepieces sound more exotic. Ultimately, it’s all clever marketing to increase watch sales. Another, big trend at the moment is ultra-thin mechanical timepieces. Personally, I prefer more robust models that make provisions for three-dimensional architectural movements. However, I do concede these types of watches may not be as practical to wear with formal attire. For that reason, discerning clients have become captivated with wafer-thin timepieces.

Most watch enthusiasts would associate Piaget with ultra-thin models. Their Altiplano Ultimate Concept prototype watch unveiled in 2018 has a case size measuring 2mm. The commercial version was officially released in 2020 and was announced as the world’s slimmest watch. Subsequently Bulgari in conjunction with movement manufacturer Concepto developed the 1.8mm Octo Finissimo Ultra watch. Their record didn’t stand long because Richard Mille presented the 1.75mm RM UP-01 Ferrari (with AP Renaud & Papi). This timepiece has got the most exposure because of the $2million price tag and celebrity brand ambassador Pharrell Williams. However, now Konstantin Chaykin has burst their bubble by creating his own micro thin 1.65mm ‘ThinKing’ watch.

Unless you are a devout Horophile the development of ultra-thin watches probably has no relevance. Ultimately, you are paying a lot more money for a slimmer movement and less materials. However, there is a lot of technical ingenuity in producing these micro-mechanisms and that appeals to serious collectors. The conception of the ‘ThinKing’ watch isn’t a chest-beating exercise to prove a point but a response to a customer’s wishes. Several years ago, Konstantin Chaykin discovered a 1mm thin Bagnolet mid-19th century pocket watch calibre with cylinder escapement, signed Aug. Golay Leresche à Genève. Regrettably, he didn’t purchase the mechanism but did reference it for his own project.

Beneath the minimalistic 40mm x 1.65mm 13-gram stainless steel case is a single barrel movement developed entirely in-house by Konstantin Chaykin. The Calibre K.23-0 comprises 51 jewels and oscillates at 18,000 vibrations per hour. To wind this mechanism requires a special tool, which is in my opinion one of the main drawbacks of owning an ultra-thin watch. Functionally the ‘ThinKing’ features ‘Joker’ style Joker-hour and minute style indications. The watch also has a power reserve of 32 hours but as far as I am aware isn’t water resistant.

It’s pertinent to mention the ‘ThinKing’ watch is a working prototype so no price is available. Hopefully, a version of this piece will go into production shortly.

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