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MB & F HM5RT

A few weeks ago I published an article showcasing my favourite watches of 2013. The article entitled ‘Highlights From 2013’ featured ten exceptional creations of the year. Due to the fact there are so many outstanding timepieces available on the market it was difficult to make a definitive list. I would also like to add that these compilations are completely subjective. One of my choices was the phenomenal ZR012 by C3H5N3O9. This experimental watch was the collaboration between MB & F and Urwerk.

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As well as co-creating the ZR012 ,MB & F also unveiled the highly anticipated Legacy Machine N°2. In September I published an in depth article featuring this marvellous watch. Compared to a lot of their earlier creations this timepiece has a more classical appearance. Out of the three models available, my favourite was the opulent platinum version with electric blue dial. Recently the company released a new limited edition of the popular HM5 (Horological Machine No5), which was originally presented in 2012.

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The new watch called the HM5RT measures a whopping 51.5mm x 49mm x 22.5mm. These dimensions are significantly larger than the Legacy Machine N°1 and N°2. Nevertheless the timepiece will really appeal to dedicated supporters of MB & F as it epitomizes the spirit behind the brand. This restyled model is constructed from red gold and titanium, which should make it pretty lightweight to wear. Due to the exclusive nature of this watch and a price of $82,000 I would imagine this piece would be reserved for very special occasions. I can envisage this watch looking really cool with a smart linen suit.

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The Horological Machine No5 derives its good looks from super-cars of the 1970’s. This historic era was responsible for many radical and futuristic compositions. Visually the main differences between the two models are the choice of materials. The use of luxurious gold in the new HM5RT gives the watch a whole new dynamic. That said, I do have a fondness for the industrial appearance of the original Zirconium and steel version. Key features like the jumping hour/minute display (visible through a magnified sapphire crystal window) and adjustable vents are still integral to the overall success of the design.

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Although the watch has a fairly minimalistic silhouette, the engine that powers it is highly complex. The self-winding movement comprises 30 jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. Jean-François Mojon and Vincent Boucard of Chronode have devised this exceptional caliber. Each of the 224 components including the 22-karat rotor has been expertly hand crafted in Switzerland. The HM5RT features minutes and bi-directional jumping hours. It also has a power reserve of 42-hours and is water resistant to a depth of 30 metres.

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The HM5RT has a bespoke rubber strap with titanium tang buckle and is limited to only 66 pieces.

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