Over the last twelve months I have liaised with numerous small independents all trying to crack the lucrative watch industry. The biggest challenge they normally encounter is competing against Swatch, Richemont and Rolex. These large companies have enormous marketing resources and exceptionally high profiles. On that basis new watch labels have to create something extra special to stand a chance. Unfortunately a few brands I have featured are finding it very hard to survive under these conditions.
My mission with Total Watch Reviews is to feature a broad range of timepieces displaying design merit. From my perspective price is important as long as the appearance is original and not derivative of other watches. A great example of what I am referring to is Swiss watchmaker Vicenterra. Ambitious designer Vincent Plomb founded the company in October 2010. Originally he created three dimensional computer renderings so potential customers could visualise his watches. When he secured 70 advance orders from clientele around the world his first timepiece (GMT-3 Volume 1 A) went into production.
The GMT-3 Volume 2 E is the second release from Vicenterra and in my opinion absolutely stunning. With measurements of 54,50mm x 44,60mm x 13,65mm the watch is clearly designed to make a bold statement. Clearly these extra large proportions won’t appeal to everyone’s tastes especially classical watch lovers. Even though I have not personally worn this watch I should imagine it would sit fairly comfortably on the wrist. Primarily this is down to the sophisticated 316L stainless steel tonneau shape case. Hopefully further down the line the company will produce some models using more exotic materials. For example I think this timepiece would look really cool constructed out of black ceramic.
Visually the GMT-3 Volume 2 E has a very high quality appearance normally only found in much more expensive watches. The dial has a wonderful three-dimensional layout, which gives the piece real depth. I love elements like the overlapping counters displaying hours, minutes and GMT functions. There is also a stylish retrograde date arc with an aperture exposing the mechanical movement. My favourite detail is the rotating globe positioned in the bottom right hand corner (and visible through the case back). Greubel Forsey also used this feature to great effect in their phenomenal GMT. Overall the composition is perfectly balanced and superbly executed.
Beneath the magnificent façade lies a Caliber ETA 2892 with bespoke module designed specifically for Vicenterra. The self-winding movement comprises 42-jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. This accomplished mechanism can be viewed through a small round window located on the case back. Functionally the GMT-3 Volume 2 E features hours, minutes, seconds, retrograde date and GMT facility. The watch also has a power reserve of 42-hours and is water resistant to a depth of 50 metres.
The GMT-3 Volume 2 E has a hand sewn alligator strap with matching clasp. Priced at €8,300 (approximately $11,340).
