In my humble opinion De-Bethune are one of the most enjoyable brands to write about. Recently the company stole the show when they unveiled some incredible models at SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) 2014. My personal favourite was the outstanding Dream Watch 5. This incredible creation displays curvaceous lines and presents time via an aperture located at the top of the case. It is also constructed out of Grade 5 polished titanium, which means it will be very lightweight to wear. I am really excited about the prospect of inspecting this magnificent piece on my forthcoming visit to Baselworld.
Over the last few months I have featured brands like MB & F, Urwerk, Rebellion, HYT and Vianney Halter. All of their models are radical, stimulating and have futuristic facades. For a watchmaker it is a huge gamble to design avant-garde futuristic timepieces, as there is only a small minority of clients who will purchase them. Nevertheless I feel their presence makes the watch industry a much more interesting place.
In April last year (2013) I had the great pleasure of reviewing the phenomenal DB28. At this point the timepiece had just been awarded the Aiguille d’or overall grand prize. On a recent visit to Sydney I got to try on another one of their fantastic timepieces called the DB27 Titan Hawk. With a diameter measuring 44mm the watch is slightly larger than the DB28, although visually it appears the same size. This is probably because the floating lugs are a lot smaller on the DB27. It also felt just as comfortable and lightweight on the wrist. Primarily this is down to the ergonomic case design and use of Grade 5 titanium in production. Practically speaking this watch could be worn for daily use but realistically it would be reserved for special occasions.
Aesthetically the DB27 Titan Hawk has a more classical façade than the majority of De-Bethune’s other models. Ultimately this should appeal to an audience with more traditional tastes. The microlight silver toned dial is understated and has a high quality appearance. A raised chapter ring displays Roman numeral hours and Arabic number minutes. I love the open worked blue steel hour/minutes hands and central date marker. Overall I feel the composition has been thoughtfully considered and executed to perfection.
To power the watch, De-Bethune have created a highly accomplished self-winding movement. The Caliber S233 comprises 38-jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. Similar to the Caliber DB2115 (used in the DB28) there are several patents including a self-regulating twin barrel, triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system, titanium/platinum oscillating weight and silicon escape-wheel. This wonderful mechanical engineering is visible through the sapphire crystal case back. Functionally the DB27 Titan Hawk features hours, minutes and central date ring. The watch also has a staggering power reserve of 6 days.
The DB27 Titan Hawk has a hand sewn alligator strap with matching pin buckle. Priced at: CHF 37,000 (approximately $41,159).
For more information visit the company’s website: http://www.debethune.ch