The history of luxury watchmaker Corum dates back nearly 60 years. In 1955 Gaston Ries and his nephew, Renee Bannwart, established the business. Currently the brand manufacturers all its timepieces in workshops located in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Predominantly the company is known for a range of exciting models including the Coin Watch, Golden Bridge, Romulus and Admiral’s Cup. They have also produced a range of more complicated timepieces like the Classical Billionaire Tourbillon.
Haldian Holdings Limited of China bought Corum last year for CHF 86 million (approximately $98 million US). This is the first time a high end Swiss watchmaker has been acquired by a Chinese company. Ultimately I can see more of these takeovers occurring over the next few years. Haldian already has a pretty impressive portfolio of brands including Eterna. According to former CEO (and now consultant) Antonio Calce the group wants to continue in the fine tradition of Swiss watchmaking. Obviously a lot of people in the industry are skeptical so I personally will be very interested to see how things develop in the future.
This year at Baselworld, Corum unveiled a fantastic new watch called the Admiral’s Cup AC-One 45 Squelette. Dimensionally the watch sits in the middle of the range measuring 45mm x 13.30mm. These proportions should appeal to a wide spectrum of buyers including the increasingly lucrative unisex market. Although I haven’t actually tried on this timepiece I have worn similar size models by Hublot and Linde Werdellin. For that reason I suspect this watch would feel very lightweight and comfortable on the wrist. Primarily this is down to the sophisticated case design and choice of high performance grade 5 titanium in production. Realistically this timepiece is a perfect choice for both casual and formal occasions.
I have always really liked the design of Corum’s Admiral’s Cup collection especially the larger 48mm diameter models. In my opinion the Admiral’s Cup AC-One 45 Squelette is one of the most striking timepieces the company have ever produced. What makes this watch so enticing is the exquisite multi-layered skeletonised dial. This characteristic elegantly exposes the mechanical movement and gives the watch real depth. Other eye-catching features include a twelve sided bezel and distinctive screw down crown. Overall the three dimensional composition is very effective and the finishing is superlative.
Beneath the stylish exterior lies a highly accomplished self-winding movement. The Caliber CO 9000 comprises 27 jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz). This intricate mechanism is wonderfully showcased through the sapphire crystal exhibition case back. Functionally the Admiral’s Cup AC-One 45 Squelette features hours, minutes, seconds and date facility (visible on the open worked date wheel located at 6 o’clock). The watch also has a power reserve of 42 hours and is water resistant to a depth of 300 metres.
The Admiral’s Cup AC-One 45 Squelette has a hand sewn black crocodile strap with matching triple folding clasp.
